Wearables
Fit basics
Most complaints about underwear are fit complaints wearing a different costume. The diagnosis is usually one size away.
A supportive garment is a tension structure. A closed elastic loop goes around the body, panels hang from that loop, and straps stop the front tipping forward. The loop does the work because it is the only part in contact all the way round and the only one able to spread load over a wide area.
The band, not the straps
Straps can only hang a garment from two narrow points on the shoulders. Asked to carry the load, they produce sore shoulders and grooves, and no amount of adjustment fixes the cause. If a band rides up at the back, the band is too loose, and that single observation explains the majority of uncomfortable garments in circulation.
Three checks
- Band: level all the way round, snug enough to stay put with the straps loosened.
- Panels: no gaping and no spillage at any edge, with the body in several positions rather than one.
- Straps: carrying almost nothing, adjustable, and not leaving a mark after an hour.
Sizing systems disagree
Underwear sizing is not standardised between countries or between makers, and a letter on its own describes a difference between two measurements rather than a fixed volume. The practical consequence is that a size that fits in one brand tells you very little about another, and measuring is more useful than remembering.
Bodies change, garments do not
Weight, medication, pregnancy, the menstrual cycle and time all change measurements, sometimes within a month. A drawer of garments bought over five years will contain several sizes, and the ones that feel wrong are usually the ones that were right two years ago. Measuring twice a year takes five minutes and prevents most of it.
Fit also interacts with what is worn underneath or over the top. A garment that works under a loose shirt can be uncomfortable under a fitted one, because the outer layer changes where the pressure falls, which is the same principle covered on the fabric page.
Measuring properly
Two measurements do most of the work: one snug and level around the ribcage under the bust, one level around the fullest part without compression. Taken in front of a mirror with a soft tape, in the underwear normally worn, they are repeatable. Taken over a jumper in a hurry, they are not, which is where most sizing confusion begins.
Sizes then vary between makers by a full step in either direction, so the numbers are a starting point rather than an answer. Buying two sizes and returning one is normal practice for garments, and unlike most items in this category, garments can usually be returned.